Yakushima island tour

The next day, after arriving to Yakushima and passing on the way a couple of active volcanos, we took a brilliant island tour with Steve from Yes Yakushima. He picked us up from our lodge early in the morning and we took off on a day trip around the entire island. 

First a short introduction of Yakushima

The island has been inhabited for several thousands of years and the islanders have lived in harmony with nature, but this delicate balance has been disrupted by outsiders several times during the history.

Yakushima's people believe that their Gods exist in the trees, rocks and mountains, which is why you need to be respectful when moving in the nature. There are sacred places and trails, that are used still today.

Almost the entire island is covered with forest and the view is dominated by majestic mountains, with the highest peak (Mt. Miyanoura) reaching up to 1936 meters above the sea level. As there are no high mountains in Finland, I'm mistaking them constantly for thunder clouds, since there is nothing else big and dark in our horizons.

The climate ranges from subtropical zone to a subarctic zone, with several types of micro climates. It rains a lot on Yakushima, twice as much as on the main land. This is why there is plenty of fresh water available on Yakushima and there are more than 200 rivers and many powerful waterfalls. The mountain tops are covered in snow during winter.  

Waterfalls, onsens, wild animals and much more

Back to the tour. The morning was rainy, which was perfect for visiting waterfalls. Luckily we had our rain ponchos with us and Steve lent us umbrellas, so we could enjoy the waterfalls to the fullest. Standing right at the root of a raiging waterfall is a very strong experience. The sound is overwhelming and the mist can be seen rising up the mountain slope, looking more like smoke than water. 

After the rain stopped, Steve took us to an open air onsen located by the sea. The entrance is guarded by red fresh water crabs, but you need to approach them gently, since they are quite shy. We decided to seize the opportunity and took a bath in the pleasantly warm, slightly sulphurous water and enjoyed an amazing view over the sea where big waves crushed against the shore covered in big, sharp rocks. Two kites, a type of hawk I think, hovered over our heads in the warm sea breeze, making the moment perfect. 

God lives in the rocks, that's why there is a rock inside this shrine. 

God lives in the rocks, that's why there is a rock inside this shrine. 

We continued the tour with visiting an organic tea plantation and a man who makes beautiful clay objects with special glazing technicues. After that, we headed to the mountain roads, rising high over the landscape. The views are spectacular and the slopes lush and green. We were also very lucky and saw Yaku-deer and Yaku-monkeys from a close range.

Organic tea growing in neat rows.

Organic tea growing in neat rows.

The high grade tea consists only of the newest shoots. Green and black tea comes from the same plant and the process will create the different types of tea.

The high grade tea consists only of the newest shoots. Green and black tea comes from the same plant and the process will create the different types of tea.

But the best part of the island tour was Steve and all the things and stories he shared us! The tour was intimate and Steve's passion towards and knowledge of the island's nature, history, culture, current affairs, and people gives you an extensive picture of Yakushima. Thank you Steve!

Ps. Yes Yakushima helped us a lot already before our trip to Japan. We got for example info about how to get to Yakushima, and help with transportation and accommodation bookings. 

Fresh laundry, Nagasaki

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We are staying in Japan Railway's hotel here in Nagasaki. It's a great hotel located at the train station, which is why we chose it, because we arrived late yesterday and have to leave really early tomorrow morning. 

The laundry pile started to be a bit big, so we decided to use the hotel's laundry service and today, when arriving from the Hashima tour, we found our clothes squeaky clean in our room. 

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The package was really impressive with every item packed in individual bags and pinned with tags.  

Ramen in Nagasaki

It was time to eat some ramen soup in Nagasaki! We found a cool place, where every guest is greeted with a shouting chorus from the personnel. This happens every time somebody steps in, orders, pays and leaves the place. We have no idea what was said, but the feeling was warm and welcoming. It was a fun experience and the food was great too. 

English menu.

English menu.

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By the way... In japan it is perfectly ok to slurp your ramen with with loud slurping sounds...

 

Oishii!!! 

Hashima island tour, Nagasaki

We came to Nagasaki because of the deserted coal mine located on Hashima island. You have to reserve a ticket well in advance since it's a popular destination. We chose a company called Gunkanjima Cruise and their boat called "Black Diamond". 

The island is located outside Nagasaki center. If it's windy and the waves are bg, like today, you are not able to go to the island, but it's still worth seeing. Take good rain jackets with you if the weather seems rainy. 

The island and its decaying buildings are creepy and the damage nature can cause is impressive. The island really looks like a ghost cruise ship.  

There is also other things to see during the trip. Nagasaki is located between mountains and there is lots of green mountain tops, which makes the city quite beautiful. We also saw flying fish, herons and eagles. 

Hidden gems on Naoshima

Naoshima is well know as an art destination. There are several museums, art projects and open air pieces to see. One of the most famous piece is the yellow, spotted pumpking by Yayoi Kusama. It's located on a beautiful beach and sits on a pier. All destinations are pinned on a map, which you can get from info centers and Uno train station. 

Ryokan Shioya, Naoshima

Entrance to Ruokan Shioya. Just step in.

Entrance to Ruokan Shioya. Just step in.

The ryokan is an experience and the hostess, Yukiko-san, is lovely, good spirited and a great cook. She speaks very little English, but is happy to try to communicate with you. I wish I could speak Japanese, because she would have a lot to tell. We were the first Finns to visit her, so we got to write in her guestbook a short story about us.

Shioya is located very close to Miyanoura Port. It takes 2 minutes to walk there from the ferry. The area is exciting with narrow alleys and small buildings. Ryokans and other similar establishments have beautiful door curtains.

Shioya is a traditional ryokan/guest house. Yukiko-san serves two meals: breakfast between 7:00-8:30 am and dinner 6:00 - 8:00 pm. The food is very good and beautifully presented. There were a lot of new tastes for us and we got to taste several fish we hadn't eaten before. 

You can also take a traditional bath or a basic shower, but the best part is that you get to wear Yukata robes, which you will find in the rooms.

The rooms are spacious with tatami floors. The futon beds appear/disappear magically to/from your room during the meals. The pillows have a completely different filling (maybe some sort of grains) than usually, they are very firm and comfortable.  

Yukio-san's brother is a photograph and has documented Japanese everyday life at least in the seventies and eighties. His photographs have been published as several books. His pictures of the Ama women are especially beautiful.

 Thank you for your hospitality Yukiko-san!

Chichu Art Museum, Lee Ufan Museum, and Benesse House, Naoshima

Today was a museum day. We rented electric bikes from "Rent a bike & cycle" (http://www.tvc-service.com/miyaura.htm) and it was the first time either of us had driven one. The bikes were fantastic and the extra boost from the electric motor was surprisingly good and welcome when it started to rain. Luckily, we had raincoats and our journey could continue all day, despite the heavy rain and strong wind.

Cycling is very easy on the island and the distances between the sites are short (3, 5, 15 and 30 min by bike) and is suitable for walking too.

All three museum buildings are impressive concrete, steel and glass creations, partly underground. Emphasis has been put on natural light and some of the exhibition rooms have no other light source. 

If you have time to visit only one of these three locations, we recommend you to see the Chichu Art Museum. It offered something unexpected and completely new in a stunning building.

Don't forget to visit Chichu Art Museum and Benesse House cafés. They have simple, high quality menus and the scenery is beautiful.

 

Travelling in 20 minute's intervals, Osaka-Himeji-Naoshima

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Himeji is 90 km/30 min from Osaka and Naoshima 113 km/1 h 20 min from Himeji. The Osaka-Himeji distance is straight forward. You take a train from Osaka's central train station directly to Himeji, but the trip to Nashima is a bit trickier...well not tricky, but you need to switch trains three times. 

​But don't worry you can use the Hyperdia app, which contains all train timetables in Japan and you can plan your trip really easily. People at the railway stations are also very helpful​, so you should find the trains without problems. 

So, the trip from Himeji to Naoshima can look like this: ​

  • Himeji station, Shinkansen Sakura train​ - 21 min
  • Okayama station, JR Seto-Ohashi Line​ - 22 min
  • Chayamachi station​, JR Uno Line to Uno end stop - 24 min
  • Walk 100​ meter to the Naoshima ferry and hop on - 20 min

As you can see, transitions happen in 20 min intervalls. ​

The last two​ trains were almost full packed with children returning from schools to their homes. Everybody were pretty involved in playing games on their phones. The landscape is rural with more space than before Okayama. You can see mountains, fields and "small" villages with old, traditional houses made from wood. Some of the houses have beautiful gardens, just like the ones you see in magazines.