Oona

Fresh laundry, Nagasaki

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We are staying in Japan Railway's hotel here in Nagasaki. It's a great hotel located at the train station, which is why we chose it, because we arrived late yesterday and have to leave really early tomorrow morning. 

The laundry pile started to be a bit big, so we decided to use the hotel's laundry service and today, when arriving from the Hashima tour, we found our clothes squeaky clean in our room. 

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The package was really impressive with every item packed in individual bags and pinned with tags.  

Ramen in Nagasaki

It was time to eat some ramen soup in Nagasaki! We found a cool place, where every guest is greeted with a shouting chorus from the personnel. This happens every time somebody steps in, orders, pays and leaves the place. We have no idea what was said, but the feeling was warm and welcoming. It was a fun experience and the food was great too. 

English menu.

English menu.

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By the way... In japan it is perfectly ok to slurp your ramen with with loud slurping sounds...

 

Oishii!!! 

Hashima island tour, Nagasaki

We came to Nagasaki because of the deserted coal mine located on Hashima island. You have to reserve a ticket well in advance since it's a popular destination. We chose a company called Gunkanjima Cruise and their boat called "Black Diamond". 

The island is located outside Nagasaki center. If it's windy and the waves are bg, like today, you are not able to go to the island, but it's still worth seeing. Take good rain jackets with you if the weather seems rainy. 

The island and its decaying buildings are creepy and the damage nature can cause is impressive. The island really looks like a ghost cruise ship.  

There is also other things to see during the trip. Nagasaki is located between mountains and there is lots of green mountain tops, which makes the city quite beautiful. We also saw flying fish, herons and eagles. 

Hidden gems on Naoshima

Naoshima is well know as an art destination. There are several museums, art projects and open air pieces to see. One of the most famous piece is the yellow, spotted pumpking by Yayoi Kusama. It's located on a beautiful beach and sits on a pier. All destinations are pinned on a map, which you can get from info centers and Uno train station. 

Ryokan Shioya, Naoshima

Entrance to Ruokan Shioya. Just step in.

Entrance to Ruokan Shioya. Just step in.

The ryokan is an experience and the hostess, Yukiko-san, is lovely, good spirited and a great cook. She speaks very little English, but is happy to try to communicate with you. I wish I could speak Japanese, because she would have a lot to tell. We were the first Finns to visit her, so we got to write in her guestbook a short story about us.

Shioya is located very close to Miyanoura Port. It takes 2 minutes to walk there from the ferry. The area is exciting with narrow alleys and small buildings. Ryokans and other similar establishments have beautiful door curtains.

Shioya is a traditional ryokan/guest house. Yukiko-san serves two meals: breakfast between 7:00-8:30 am and dinner 6:00 - 8:00 pm. The food is very good and beautifully presented. There were a lot of new tastes for us and we got to taste several fish we hadn't eaten before. 

You can also take a traditional bath or a basic shower, but the best part is that you get to wear Yukata robes, which you will find in the rooms.

The rooms are spacious with tatami floors. The futon beds appear/disappear magically to/from your room during the meals. The pillows have a completely different filling (maybe some sort of grains) than usually, they are very firm and comfortable.  

Yukio-san's brother is a photograph and has documented Japanese everyday life at least in the seventies and eighties. His photographs have been published as several books. His pictures of the Ama women are especially beautiful.

 Thank you for your hospitality Yukiko-san!

Chichu Art Museum, Lee Ufan Museum, and Benesse House, Naoshima

Today was a museum day. We rented electric bikes from "Rent a bike & cycle" (http://www.tvc-service.com/miyaura.htm) and it was the first time either of us had driven one. The bikes were fantastic and the extra boost from the electric motor was surprisingly good and welcome when it started to rain. Luckily, we had raincoats and our journey could continue all day, despite the heavy rain and strong wind.

Cycling is very easy on the island and the distances between the sites are short (3, 5, 15 and 30 min by bike) and is suitable for walking too.

All three museum buildings are impressive concrete, steel and glass creations, partly underground. Emphasis has been put on natural light and some of the exhibition rooms have no other light source. 

If you have time to visit only one of these three locations, we recommend you to see the Chichu Art Museum. It offered something unexpected and completely new in a stunning building.

Don't forget to visit Chichu Art Museum and Benesse House cafés. They have simple, high quality menus and the scenery is beautiful.

 

Travelling in 20 minute's intervals, Osaka-Himeji-Naoshima

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Himeji is 90 km/30 min from Osaka and Naoshima 113 km/1 h 20 min from Himeji. The Osaka-Himeji distance is straight forward. You take a train from Osaka's central train station directly to Himeji, but the trip to Nashima is a bit trickier...well not tricky, but you need to switch trains three times. 

​But don't worry you can use the Hyperdia app, which contains all train timetables in Japan and you can plan your trip really easily. People at the railway stations are also very helpful​, so you should find the trains without problems. 

So, the trip from Himeji to Naoshima can look like this: ​

  • Himeji station, Shinkansen Sakura train​ - 21 min
  • Okayama station, JR Seto-Ohashi Line​ - 22 min
  • Chayamachi station​, JR Uno Line to Uno end stop - 24 min
  • Walk 100​ meter to the Naoshima ferry and hop on - 20 min

As you can see, transitions happen in 20 min intervalls. ​

The last two​ trains were almost full packed with children returning from schools to their homes. Everybody were pretty involved in playing games on their phones. The landscape is rural with more space than before Okayama. You can see mountains, fields and "small" villages with old, traditional houses made from wood. Some of the houses have beautiful gardens, just like the ones you see in magazines.

Himeji castle

Before going to Naoshima, we had a three hour stop at Himeji castle. It has been renovated recently and shines brightly over the whole city. The structure is made from stones (some of them looted from cemeteries), plaster and wood. The wood structure is impressive and the trees used for it have been massive (approximately 80 cm in diameter). 

Since the floors are made of wood, all visitors need to take their shoes off, so bring a pair good socks with you and if its a chillier day, take knitted socks with you. It can get a bit cold even on a warm day, since all windows are wide open and it's quite windy on the hill. 

There are at least six floors in the castle and you can go right to the top. The stairs between the floors are steep and the steps are high. Nevertheless, there were lots of elderly people climbing the stairs up and down. It was surprising and a proof of how people in Japan stay active and in good shape through the years.